Smoked Southern comfort

At Jax House of Ribs each order is laced with country sweetness

By Judith Stocks

Special to Metromix
March 13, 2008

 
Smoked Southern comfort
(Credit: Sun-Sentinel/Joe Cavaretta)
Takeout
Jax House of Ribs
Address: 5401 Powerline Road, Fort Lauderdale, 954-776-4994
Type food: Barbecue, salads and sandwiches
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Dining facilities: Full-service restaurant with takeout
Service: The fun of this place is the down-home informality, though you'll find servers efficient and eager to please.
Delivery: None
   
THE DISH

Jax's ribs resonate with oak and plenty of rich red slightly sweet sauce, including a fresh glistening layer brushed on just before they leave the kitchen. Extra sauce comes with your order in a small container. These baby backs have meat that gently pulls from the bone. A half rack ($8.95) is perfect for lunch, especially because it includes two sides and a choice of garlic toast or corn bread.

Order corn bread and you get an individual loaf that's moist and sweet. From 10 sides, I picked Cajun rice, a pleasant blend with a bit of lingering heat. I also opted for house-made macaroni and cheese that contains soft-cooked elbow macaroni and a mild but good cheese sauce. I particularly like that Jax doesn't just throw all the meal components into a big foam box. Each item is carefully and separately packed so you don't wind up with mac and cheese all over your ribs. And, all you transplanted Southerners will be happy to know Jax serves sweeeeet tea.

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